Sewaholic Thurlow Fitting Adjustments

Ohai.

I usually get some questions about what adjustments I made so I thought I'd post some photos of my FBA* for the Sewaholic Thurlow shorts

(* FULL BOOTY ADJUSTMENT)

I'm not sure who might find this useful, since I don't know anyone else with quite the rear differential that I have (15" increase from waist to butt apex), although the very helpful Kathy of kathy-sews is a slimmer version.  I often find her pants adjustment details really helpful.  Maybe someone out there will find my adjustments helpful as well!

I did a standard muslin process to get the adjustments, and then altered in my final version a couple of times before calling them "good enough."  I have learned the hard way to transfer each alteration to my pattern BEFORE going on with any other sewing.  I have a couple of other pants made where the final fit alterations are lost because I skipped that part.

I struggle a lot with motivation when fitting - I have lots of despair, having to do things over & over again.  Ripping out seams, and the pin, baste, try on, tweak & finally sew together gets really old.  However, wearing ill-fitting pants is even more annoying.  If I struggle when sewing and want to just be done, I go try on some off the rack pants, have a good hard look at my booty in the mirror and give myself a serious talking too.  I try to channel my late father, whose mantra was "If you're going to do a half-assed job you might as well not do it at all."  (pun intended)

New Look 6187

I have been looking for a nice summer shirt to keep the sun off - something with long sleeves and decent neck coverage.  I saw a few nice examples of New Look 6187 on Pattern Review, and got myself a copy.  I'm half way through, and I like it!

My fabric is a cotton voile by Amy Butler

It's a nice pattern, and the first time I have tried a New Look pattern.  The instructions are nice - they remind me of 1930s instructions - a bunch of illustrations down the center, with text to the side.  I like that instead of the one direction followed by one illustration layout that most other modern patterns use.

Sorbetto Alterations

A little Before & After on the Colette Patterns Sorbetto top, with alterations detailed below.

On the back, you can see that I added a center back seam in the gingham.  This is because I did not have enough fabric to cut a full back piece.  I took advantage of the seam to remove some of the excess fabric.  I still have a way to go here.  

 In both tops, I widened from the waist down.  In the gingham top, I also scooped the hemline on back and front.  I think it's more flattering to have a slight curve across the hip.

On the gingham top, I cut the armscye in a bit, and also raised the bust dart by 1"

Finally, I added to the back, and removed from the front shoulder seam - this is an effort to get it to stop falling to the back and riding up in front.

Can't stop making Lady Ska-Tees

One more Lady Skater as a shirt - a long-sleeved version using up some fabric leftovers.  I love the pop of cobalt ribbing!  This ribbing has one side solid, and the opposite ribbed, so it is not as stretchy  as it should be.  I think it would be better used on a double-knit as opposed to the cotton-rayon-spandex blend of this bodice.  It ended up ok, but it was a little harrowing to ease on the neckband.

Something's Cooking

Happy Fall!  Grainline Archer, version 3 is back on the sewing table!

Button Loop Closure

I decided to try to my first button loop closure on my wearable muslin of Simplicity 3823

I first cut 1" bias strips of my fashion fabric, stitched them at 3/8" from the edge & turned them.  They were still kinda flat as "self filled" tubing - so I cut some sock yarn, and threaded 2 strands through each tube to give it some body.

I then read 5 books about how to make button loop closures.  The best instructions were in my vintage 1961 "Singer Dressmaking Course" book - Here's a snap of the lovely illustrations!

I found some appropriate buttons, and measured my desired spacing on the garment.  I collected some double-stick tape and a piece of paper and started to place my loops.

I decided to simply put the loop into the seam allowance that was there for the zipper - this worked well.

On the opposite (button) side, I cut a 2" wide placket, and sewed that into the seam so that the underlap was wide enough to avoid my skin peeking through under the buttons.  I sewed a small snap to the corner at the top, so that it will be secure when wearing.

The loop closure is really very pretty & comfortable.  I'm glad I tried to learn something new instead of just installing another zipper.  

I still have to hem the peplum, and then take some final photos.

WIP - halter top

I'm going to make Simplicity 3823 halter-top dress in this tropical-print Kaufmann cotton poplin.

I made a muslin in a batik cotton, and decided to line & alter it to be wearable.  I added some cotton batting to pad the cups.  I cut & nested a few ovals of decreasing size, stitched them to a backing.  I sandwiched them between the lining and outer layer, and basted to the lining side.  My lining is the same batik, and I did add the boning to the bodice back and side.  Finally, I added a small peplum below the waistband so that it is not a crop-top.

I still need to put in a closure, and hem the bottom.  The pattern calls for a lapped zipper, sewn in over the lining and outer fabric together.  This always seems so messy to me - why not try to nest the zipper inside the lining if you can?  I'm considering other closure options (perhaps a button band?)

I did a small bust adjustment by removing fabric from the back panels - sounds strange, but it worked well, and I have excellent coverage in the front.  Here is an image of where I marked the new seam-line: