I'm not really a Satinist

But what about the silk satin?

Sway Back

A while ago someone asked about how to remove length at the center back - for swayback alteration.  I'm making a new Lady Skater, and I altered the back bodice in this way.

Below is a photo showing what I did.  I use my curved ruler.  I mark at center back the height of the amount I want to remove (2/3") - then I place one edge on the side seam corner, and the other on my mark at center back and mark the new cutting line  For this pattern, I have created full-size pattern pieces - so next I flip the ruler and mark the same adjustment on the other side of the bodice.  I make sure to put the same ruler mark (3) at the center back when I flip it, so that the curve is the same on both sides.

Cambie!

I finally made myself a Sewaholic Cambie - and in the same fabric as the Tasia's version in her pattern store photos - which I didn't realize until after I made it up :)

I used a lightweight interfacing on the waistband, but it was too lightweight.  So, on the lining waistband I used sewn-in hair canvas.  I think this is ok - it looks very light on the exposed sheer swiss dot, and it holds a firm shape.  My only criticism is it's a bit scratchy, even through the lining.

I did not hem it as short as the pattern asked for - it's really already a smidge too short for me with the ~5/8" machine rolled hem that I did instead.

This dress takes a little time, because you assemble the lining and then sew the two together sandwiched around the invisible zip.  However, it is simple to sew - I made it up in about a week of evening sewing sessions.  I used my serger to assemble the skirt pieces, as hem for the lining, and to finish the center back seams before zipper application.  I used my sewing machine for everything else, as it's much more precise than the serger.

The exterior sewn and awaiting zipper attachment

Assembling the lining...

I can't say enough for her patterns for pear-shaped girls!  My only alteration was to do a swayback because... THIS is what it looked like before:

And after, with a little over 1" taken from the center tapered to nothing at the side seams:

A little close-up of the neckline, and pleated cap sleeves.  Because you have stay-stiched this in advance, the final attachment of the sleeves and also the attachment of the lining to bodice are a breeze, just sew along the dotted line!

Mediocre, but functional sewing

Despite my New Year's resolution to sew all my clothing, I decided to purchase a couple pairs of jeans.  My reasoning was, that I don't really want to sew jeans and I'd rather sew what I want to sew than stick to a resolution on principle.

I buy OldNavy jeans, as they are inexpensive, and also come graded for 3 different shapes.  I buy the most pear-shaped jeans they offer - the SweetHeart.  These still fall off me due to a large waist, and you can see EVERYTHING if I don't have a shirt long enough to cover the rear.

I finally decided they were not wearable, and I had to alter them.
Terror ensued.
I have never sewn jeans, or a flat-felled seam.

This morning, I ripped out the seams, and cut a chunk off the center back, and out of the waistband.  I took the waist in by a little over 3" tapering quickly to nothing.  I don't think I'm putting the center carrier back on - I don't wear belts.

It's pretty clear what's my topstitching, and what's from the factory when you look here:

It's not PRETTY, but they fit much better.  Also anyone standing next to me can no longer see my underpants. 

Lady Skater III

Another Lady Skater made.

Additional alterations this time were to size down on side seams.  Next time I'll do a sway-back, and also add to the length of the back skirt panel.  I also want to try cutting one size smaller, instead of just taking it off the sides.

WIP - Summer Nightie

I've had this extraordinarily lovely fabric for some time.  Here is my WIP.

It's a cotton voile - and rather sheer.  I was considering making a lined dress with it, but I rarely wear white, and I stay away from wearing large prints in public as they just make me look larger than I already am.  At home though, I have no qualms about sporting some loud big prints.

I need a new summer nightgown - and this seemed to fit the bill.  At first I was thinking of making Butterick 6838 - but the reviewers were against it on sewing.patternreview.com - so instead I bought Simplicity 9012 on Etsy.

I decided to use the rayon seam binding tape Hug Snug for trim, as well as some cotton lace.  I had doubts about the hug snug at first, but I think a little solid dark color in the trim makes it look nicer.  I'm making french seams for this delicate fabric.

Last night, while assembling the yoke I sewed through my left index fingertip.  The needle went through the side by my nail, and I jerked back my hand which probably caused most of the damage.  When I got home from a trip to CVS for bandages, it was still in the down position.  Thank goodness I was using microtex - hahaha - very sharp and small.  I probably won't be able to finish the nightgown for another week or so because my finger needs to heal :(

Cardigan-Jacket-Top?

I just finished sewing (well, actually I didn't hem the bottom, so it's not really finished) McCall's 6844 - one of the 2013 "Patterns of the Year" as judged by sewing.patternreview.com

I wanted to make this in a pretty royal blue sweater-knit, but alas I did not have enough fabric because the damn wool shrunk (cold water wash still means shrinking).  So, I grabbed some ends from other recent projects and cut it out.  

I cut a 36, as I heard it runs large.  I also altered the arms to be 1"wider because I heard they run small.

 


I used my Lola sweatshirt fleece for the bodice and arms.  I didn't have quite enough to cut the full bodice back, so I cut it a little shorter.  Good thing, because it is exactly at my waist with the 3/4" taken off.  The peplum is in that fleecy-spandex-neoprene wannabe fabric that I used to make my yoga pants.  I left the fleecy side out for this one, and it's very soft and fuzzy.  Also, the peplum drapes better with the smooth side down.