Can't stop making Lady Ska-Tees

One more Lady Skater as a shirt - a long-sleeved version using up some fabric leftovers.  I love the pop of cobalt ribbing!  This ribbing has one side solid, and the opposite ribbed, so it is not as stretchy  as it should be.  I think it would be better used on a double-knit as opposed to the cotton-rayon-spandex blend of this bodice.  It ended up ok, but it was a little harrowing to ease on the neckband.

Something's Cooking

Happy Fall!  Grainline Archer, version 3 is back on the sewing table!

Button Loop Closure

I decided to try to my first button loop closure on my wearable muslin of Simplicity 3823

I first cut 1" bias strips of my fashion fabric, stitched them at 3/8" from the edge & turned them.  They were still kinda flat as "self filled" tubing - so I cut some sock yarn, and threaded 2 strands through each tube to give it some body.

I then read 5 books about how to make button loop closures.  The best instructions were in my vintage 1961 "Singer Dressmaking Course" book - Here's a snap of the lovely illustrations!

I found some appropriate buttons, and measured my desired spacing on the garment.  I collected some double-stick tape and a piece of paper and started to place my loops.

I decided to simply put the loop into the seam allowance that was there for the zipper - this worked well.

On the opposite (button) side, I cut a 2" wide placket, and sewed that into the seam so that the underlap was wide enough to avoid my skin peeking through under the buttons.  I sewed a small snap to the corner at the top, so that it will be secure when wearing.

The loop closure is really very pretty & comfortable.  I'm glad I tried to learn something new instead of just installing another zipper.  

I still have to hem the peplum, and then take some final photos.

WIP - halter top

I'm going to make Simplicity 3823 halter-top dress in this tropical-print Kaufmann cotton poplin.

I made a muslin in a batik cotton, and decided to line & alter it to be wearable.  I added some cotton batting to pad the cups.  I cut & nested a few ovals of decreasing size, stitched them to a backing.  I sandwiched them between the lining and outer layer, and basted to the lining side.  My lining is the same batik, and I did add the boning to the bodice back and side.  Finally, I added a small peplum below the waistband so that it is not a crop-top.

I still need to put in a closure, and hem the bottom.  The pattern calls for a lapped zipper, sewn in over the lining and outer fabric together.  This always seems so messy to me - why not try to nest the zipper inside the lining if you can?  I'm considering other closure options (perhaps a button band?)

I did a small bust adjustment by removing fabric from the back panels - sounds strange, but it worked well, and I have excellent coverage in the front.  Here is an image of where I marked the new seam-line:

I'm not really a Satinist

But what about the silk satin?

Sway Back

A while ago someone asked about how to remove length at the center back - for swayback alteration.  I'm making a new Lady Skater, and I altered the back bodice in this way.

Below is a photo showing what I did.  I use my curved ruler.  I mark at center back the height of the amount I want to remove (2/3") - then I place one edge on the side seam corner, and the other on my mark at center back and mark the new cutting line  For this pattern, I have created full-size pattern pieces - so next I flip the ruler and mark the same adjustment on the other side of the bodice.  I make sure to put the same ruler mark (3) at the center back when I flip it, so that the curve is the same on both sides.

Cambie!

I finally made myself a Sewaholic Cambie - and in the same fabric as the Tasia's version in her pattern store photos - which I didn't realize until after I made it up :)

I used a lightweight interfacing on the waistband, but it was too lightweight.  So, on the lining waistband I used sewn-in hair canvas.  I think this is ok - it looks very light on the exposed sheer swiss dot, and it holds a firm shape.  My only criticism is it's a bit scratchy, even through the lining.

I did not hem it as short as the pattern asked for - it's really already a smidge too short for me with the ~5/8" machine rolled hem that I did instead.

This dress takes a little time, because you assemble the lining and then sew the two together sandwiched around the invisible zip.  However, it is simple to sew - I made it up in about a week of evening sewing sessions.  I used my serger to assemble the skirt pieces, as hem for the lining, and to finish the center back seams before zipper application.  I used my sewing machine for everything else, as it's much more precise than the serger.

The exterior sewn and awaiting zipper attachment

Assembling the lining...

I can't say enough for her patterns for pear-shaped girls!  My only alteration was to do a swayback because... THIS is what it looked like before:

And after, with a little over 1" taken from the center tapered to nothing at the side seams:

A little close-up of the neckline, and pleated cap sleeves.  Because you have stay-stiched this in advance, the final attachment of the sleeves and also the attachment of the lining to bodice are a breeze, just sew along the dotted line!