Friday, November 1, 2013

Fitting Woes

I signed up for Susan Khalje's Craftsy course (The Couture Dress) about a year ago.  I made a muslin & started fitting it.  Then, spring came & I gave up on the fall sewing.  I also lost 20 pounds this summer.

So, now that it's fall again I started in on the muslin, in an attempt to continue the fitting process.

I made one bad mistake - which was using a water-erase marker to transfer some markings.  Water erase disappears if you leave it a few months wadded up in a corner with all the other UFOs.   Somehow, up became down & without realizing it I stitched a few things on upside down, and then fitted like a mad woman

How do Mad Women fit?
  • Baste
  • Try on 
  • Pin out excess
  • Poke myself with pins, use muslin scraps as bandages
  • Curse a lot, drink some tea
  • Mark new lines
  • Rip out old seam
REPEAT 20 times.  Even if you weren't Mad at the beginning, you will be after a few iterations.

Like I said, I'm smaller.  However, I'm still lazy.  So, I didn't rip it all apart & alter everything down.  I decided I'd FIT out the 20 lbs.

I ended up with a strange looking garment - with mis-matched panels at the waistline.  Hmmm, I know I'm smaller, so I decided they needed to be smaller, and shrank them all down.  I did this despite the fact that I looked carefully at the pattern and saw that it's the side seams where the sizes really differ.  I ended up with this mess:




I recognized that the lines of the garment center panel were not the same as the line drawings or other people's patterns.  So, tonight I ripped it all apart to re-size correctly.  As soon as I did this, I saw what went wrong - I sewed the waistband on UPSIDE DOWN.  The waistband is really an extension of the bodice, and should continue to taper inwards.  Instead, mine was inverted, and grew towards the waist - which I then tried to fit out.  But, the center panel was attached with the smallest side up - and so I shrank the entire dress around it.  Oops.

Here's the fixed waistband - you can see that there is a significant curve to it, and my red fitting marks from when it was upside down are still visible on the center panel.  I think the whole garment will lie much better once I alter the rest and put it in correctly.


We'll see what I can come up with the second (or 22nd) time around, after shrinking all the pieces down to a size 16.