Thursday, October 24, 2013

1930s Sport Coat - an obsession

I watch a lot of British mystery & crime dramas.  One of my favorites is Poirot - with all of its great outfits from the 1930s.  Lately I've become obsessed with a particular cut of ladies' sport coat.  It's also common in menswear sport jackets - Captain Hastings is often wearing one on the show.

The back has a waistband and a center back pleat (or mirrored side pleats) to allow expansion across the shoulders.  I think with my broad back and slim waist, this could be a comfortable and flattering option for me.  Here are some examples from Sears Catalogs - in the last one they call it "Action Back"






I found & purchased this pattern online at Miss Betty's Attic (a favorite Etsy pattern source).  I think it's got exactly what I'm looking for!



Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Why I no longer use Pellon

This is just a quick post about my favorite interfacing, and why I'll pay extra for it.

I used to use Pellon's lightweight woven fusible interfacing for my shirt collars & cuffs.  I have had trouble in both lightweight & medium weight fabrics with the fusible both shrinking and showing the glue spots.  I grew up with Pellon, and it's carried at the local shops - so I didn't know any better.

I purchased some ProWeft Supreme medium-weight interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply a while back, and after working with that fusible, I decided to go all-in and purchase various weights & weaves for all my interfacing needs.

I have cut out another Archer shirt, this time in a cotton voile.  I'm interfacing the collar with ProSheer Elegance Light, and thought I'd share two comparison photos of cotton voiles.

First a Pellon interfaced collar - a sad affair that made my voile look like pebble crepe:

Next the ProSheer Elegance - see any wrinkles or divets?  No, you don't - because there aren't any.

Thursday, October 17, 2013

Shirt Reveal!





My shirt is done!  I'm so happy with the fit & the comfort of this thing. I have a few small alterations planned for the next version (oh yes, there will be a next).  Here is a link to my review.


Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Sneak Preview


My Archer is DONE!  Here's a quick snap en-route to NYC.  More photos coming soon...