Something's Cooking

Happy Fall!  Grainline Archer, version 3 is back on the sewing table!

Button Loop Closure

I decided to try to my first button loop closure on my wearable muslin of Simplicity 3823

I first cut 1" bias strips of my fashion fabric, stitched them at 3/8" from the edge & turned them.  They were still kinda flat as "self filled" tubing - so I cut some sock yarn, and threaded 2 strands through each tube to give it some body.

I then read 5 books about how to make button loop closures.  The best instructions were in my vintage 1961 "Singer Dressmaking Course" book - Here's a snap of the lovely illustrations!

I found some appropriate buttons, and measured my desired spacing on the garment.  I collected some double-stick tape and a piece of paper and started to place my loops.

I decided to simply put the loop into the seam allowance that was there for the zipper - this worked well.

On the opposite (button) side, I cut a 2" wide placket, and sewed that into the seam so that the underlap was wide enough to avoid my skin peeking through under the buttons.  I sewed a small snap to the corner at the top, so that it will be secure when wearing.

The loop closure is really very pretty & comfortable.  I'm glad I tried to learn something new instead of just installing another zipper.  

I still have to hem the peplum, and then take some final photos.

WIP - halter top

I'm going to make Simplicity 3823 halter-top dress in this tropical-print Kaufmann cotton poplin.

I made a muslin in a batik cotton, and decided to line & alter it to be wearable.  I added some cotton batting to pad the cups.  I cut & nested a few ovals of decreasing size, stitched them to a backing.  I sandwiched them between the lining and outer layer, and basted to the lining side.  My lining is the same batik, and I did add the boning to the bodice back and side.  Finally, I added a small peplum below the waistband so that it is not a crop-top.

I still need to put in a closure, and hem the bottom.  The pattern calls for a lapped zipper, sewn in over the lining and outer fabric together.  This always seems so messy to me - why not try to nest the zipper inside the lining if you can?  I'm considering other closure options (perhaps a button band?)

I did a small bust adjustment by removing fabric from the back panels - sounds strange, but it worked well, and I have excellent coverage in the front.  Here is an image of where I marked the new seam-line:

I'm not really a Satinist

But what about the silk satin?

Sway Back

A while ago someone asked about how to remove length at the center back - for swayback alteration.  I'm making a new Lady Skater, and I altered the back bodice in this way.

Below is a photo showing what I did.  I use my curved ruler.  I mark at center back the height of the amount I want to remove (2/3") - then I place one edge on the side seam corner, and the other on my mark at center back and mark the new cutting line  For this pattern, I have created full-size pattern pieces - so next I flip the ruler and mark the same adjustment on the other side of the bodice.  I make sure to put the same ruler mark (3) at the center back when I flip it, so that the curve is the same on both sides.

Cambie!

I finally made myself a Sewaholic Cambie - and in the same fabric as the Tasia's version in her pattern store photos - which I didn't realize until after I made it up :)

I used a lightweight interfacing on the waistband, but it was too lightweight.  So, on the lining waistband I used sewn-in hair canvas.  I think this is ok - it looks very light on the exposed sheer swiss dot, and it holds a firm shape.  My only criticism is it's a bit scratchy, even through the lining.

I did not hem it as short as the pattern asked for - it's really already a smidge too short for me with the ~5/8" machine rolled hem that I did instead.

This dress takes a little time, because you assemble the lining and then sew the two together sandwiched around the invisible zip.  However, it is simple to sew - I made it up in about a week of evening sewing sessions.  I used my serger to assemble the skirt pieces, as hem for the lining, and to finish the center back seams before zipper application.  I used my sewing machine for everything else, as it's much more precise than the serger.

The exterior sewn and awaiting zipper attachment

Assembling the lining...

I can't say enough for her patterns for pear-shaped girls!  My only alteration was to do a swayback because... THIS is what it looked like before:

And after, with a little over 1" taken from the center tapered to nothing at the side seams:

A little close-up of the neckline, and pleated cap sleeves.  Because you have stay-stiched this in advance, the final attachment of the sleeves and also the attachment of the lining to bodice are a breeze, just sew along the dotted line!

Mediocre, but functional sewing

Despite my New Year's resolution to sew all my clothing, I decided to purchase a couple pairs of jeans.  My reasoning was, that I don't really want to sew jeans and I'd rather sew what I want to sew than stick to a resolution on principle.

I buy OldNavy jeans, as they are inexpensive, and also come graded for 3 different shapes.  I buy the most pear-shaped jeans they offer - the SweetHeart.  These still fall off me due to a large waist, and you can see EVERYTHING if I don't have a shirt long enough to cover the rear.

I finally decided they were not wearable, and I had to alter them.
Terror ensued.
I have never sewn jeans, or a flat-felled seam.

This morning, I ripped out the seams, and cut a chunk off the center back, and out of the waistband.  I took the waist in by a little over 3" tapering quickly to nothing.  I don't think I'm putting the center carrier back on - I don't wear belts.

It's pretty clear what's my topstitching, and what's from the factory when you look here:

It's not PRETTY, but they fit much better.  Also anyone standing next to me can no longer see my underpants. 

Lady Skater III

Another Lady Skater made.

Additional alterations this time were to size down on side seams.  Next time I'll do a sway-back, and also add to the length of the back skirt panel.  I also want to try cutting one size smaller, instead of just taking it off the sides.

WIP - Summer Nightie

I've had this extraordinarily lovely fabric for some time.  Here is my WIP.

It's a cotton voile - and rather sheer.  I was considering making a lined dress with it, but I rarely wear white, and I stay away from wearing large prints in public as they just make me look larger than I already am.  At home though, I have no qualms about sporting some loud big prints.

I need a new summer nightgown - and this seemed to fit the bill.  At first I was thinking of making Butterick 6838 - but the reviewers were against it on sewing.patternreview.com - so instead I bought Simplicity 9012 on Etsy.

I decided to use the rayon seam binding tape Hug Snug for trim, as well as some cotton lace.  I had doubts about the hug snug at first, but I think a little solid dark color in the trim makes it look nicer.  I'm making french seams for this delicate fabric.

Last night, while assembling the yoke I sewed through my left index fingertip.  The needle went through the side by my nail, and I jerked back my hand which probably caused most of the damage.  When I got home from a trip to CVS for bandages, it was still in the down position.  Thank goodness I was using microtex - hahaha - very sharp and small.  I probably won't be able to finish the nightgown for another week or so because my finger needs to heal :(

Cardigan-Jacket-Top?

I just finished sewing (well, actually I didn't hem the bottom, so it's not really finished) McCall's 6844 - one of the 2013 "Patterns of the Year" as judged by sewing.patternreview.com

I wanted to make this in a pretty royal blue sweater-knit, but alas I did not have enough fabric because the damn wool shrunk (cold water wash still means shrinking).  So, I grabbed some ends from other recent projects and cut it out.  

I cut a 36, as I heard it runs large.  I also altered the arms to be 1"wider because I heard they run small.

 


I used my Lola sweatshirt fleece for the bodice and arms.  I didn't have quite enough to cut the full bodice back, so I cut it a little shorter.  Good thing, because it is exactly at my waist with the 3/4" taken off.  The peplum is in that fleecy-spandex-neoprene wannabe fabric that I used to make my yoga pants.  I left the fleecy side out for this one, and it's very soft and fuzzy.  Also, the peplum drapes better with the smooth side down.

Blue Archer

I'm wearing my blue Grainline Archer shirt today, and thought I'd snap a couple of photos.

Someone needs to get out the sleeve board, and iron (laaaaazy days).  My top-stitching & turn of collar are really quite improved for me - I am impressed with this shirt's details.

I'm not a showgirl, but the name is Lola

I just finished Victory Patterns' Lola sweatshirt dress.

DAMN this thing fit horribly when I first sewed it, even with tissue alterations.  So bad, that I didn't even take an interim snap.

Here's the final product, I guesstimate it's a size 10 top, 8 waist & 14 bottom from their original.  I also added 2" in length.  If you've got nice legs, don't bother as I'm not sure the extra length makes it look better, but I like to hide that part of my body.  Finally, after reading other reviews of this one, I took some advice and cut the pockets to the same size as the side panels.

It still makes my butt look big, but is that so WRONG?

Fabric is organic cotton sweatshirt fleece, in teal, with black ribbing.  Here's a little detail of the triangle front, with my still-lopsided-but-improving-every-garment topstitching.

Super comfy, and a blast from the past of my teen years in the 1980s!!!

Lady Skater 2

I finished hemming my second Lady Skater this morning.  This time, altered 2" shorter in the bodice length, keeping my 1" higher neckline from before, and also skimming about 1/4" off all side-seams for a total 1" off the waistline.  It's a nice fit!

My fabric choice is a ponte de roma from Joanne Fabrics.  It was much more stable to sew up, and is warmer & has less stretch than my rayon version.  This is my first garment with ponte, except some leggings.  I now know to use a press cloth with it, because so much shine & seam show-through happens when you press this stuff.  Seam roll & ham make no difference - this stuff is not iron-friendly.

In the ponte, the rear photo shows some pooling this time.  The rayon just slinks down so this didn't happen last time.  I think part of it is because the skirt is caught on my butt due to cotton leggings underneath, but I could get a nicer fit if I take about 1/2" out for swayback I think.

A Lady Skater and my Kenmore Twins

On a whim yesterday morning I purchased and downloaded the pdf to the Lady Skater pattern.  I started assembling the pattern at 8:00, was all cut out by lunchtime, and had a finished dress by dinner.  I don't have a serger, so that's all on my standard Kenmore sewing machine from 1978, with a couple of built-in knit stitches.

Side story - For $20.00 you too can have a machine that sews like a dream.   I saw my free-arm machine on craigslist for $40 - much lower than other similar machines ($125).  I drove up to New Hampshire to take a look.  The seller had it on zig-zag and had the straight needle plate in.  There was a snapped needle in it, and a few big divets in the plate.  I asked if he had another needle, so I could sew a test.  No needle - it was his mothers old machine and he just wanted to get rid of it.  Clearly, this guy knew nothing about sewing machines, and needle plates.  I said "not if I can't see if it sews"  He immediately dropped the price to $20, put it in a box containing 3 feet, 3/4 of a buttonholer & the manual and handed it to me.  I figured, for $20 I could take a chance.

I brought it home, cleaned off the grime, oiled it up and purchased replacement parts from Sears (yes, they still have many available).  I named it "Kenny" after my dad - it is a KENmore after all.  A month later, someone else was selling a similar table-mounted model for a fund-raiser.  That one set me back $40 and came with a buttonholer, lots of pattern cams & a fancy set of feet.  I named it Lorraine (you guessed it, after my mom).  They're quite a pair this Ken & Lorraine - just like the originals.  They both have adjustable presser foot tension, the feed dogs drop, and are set up with thread guides & spool posts for twin-needle sewing.  They have 10 built-in stitches each, and Lorraine has a bazillion cams for decorative stitches, like ducks or tulips should I ever need them.

Back to the Lady Skater...

This is a great pattern, and there are fitting & alteration instructions on her blog.  I did a quick perusal for a small bust adjustment and missed it - the instructions are there to raise the waistline because the pattern is drafted for a fuller bust.  I will make that adjustment on my next version, this one sits about 3" below my natural waist.  I think part of that is the stretch of the rayon jersey, so I plan to remove 2" of height in the bodice.  I did raise the neckline, for my high bust - and it's perfect.

Interestingly, she also included a sway back alteration in the pattern, which is great.  I rarely have so much pooling that I need to do one, but this pattern hugs my spine all the way down - it's VERY flattering.  I always just assume that any swayback issues are really big butt issues, because they appear the same at first glance - pooling fabric in the small of the back.  I usually do a test in muslin, and cut a line up the center back from hip to waist, and see if the pattern lies flat when it can swing open to cover the derriere.  After this alteration, any remaining pooling is small for me.  Now I'm considering also doing a small sway-back alteration to get 0 pooling, because this pattern has NONE.

I did one other small alteration when cutting, to cut 1" lower on the center back panel, for my previously mentioned significant butt.  I think it was not necessary - the scoop lower on the back bodice takes care of most of the extra fabric needed even though the front & back skirt panels are cut from the same piece.  You can see here the uneven hem with the extra 1" in the rear

I saw another blogger's version with a little picot edge stitch on the collar band, and I copied her idea - it came out quite nice!  You can almost see it here:

The fabric I used is a rayon jersey from Joanne Fabric - with a little spandex for stretch.  I love this print, and the color palette matches the two colors I'm trying to sew basics in - royal blue, and teal green.  I broke my fabric diet to purchase it, but I have no regrets! They also carry this print in a bottom-weight woven - which was tempting.

I'll close with the obligatory twirly shot: