Side story - For $20.00 you too can have a machine that sews like a dream. I saw my free-arm machine on craigslist for $40 - much lower than other similar machines ($125). I drove up to New Hampshire to take a look. The seller had it on zig-zag and had the straight needle plate in. There was a snapped needle in it, and a few big divets in the plate. I asked if he had another needle, so I could sew a test. No needle - it was his mothers old machine and he just wanted to get rid of it. Clearly, this guy knew nothing about sewing machines, and needle plates. I said "not if I can't see if it sews" He immediately dropped the price to $20, put it in a box containing 3 feet, 3/4 of a buttonholer & the manual and handed it to me. I figured, for $20 I could take a chance.
I brought it home, cleaned off the grime, oiled it up and purchased replacement parts from Sears (yes, they still have many available). I named it "Kenny" after my dad - it is a KENmore after all. A month later, someone else was selling a similar table-mounted model for a fund-raiser. That one set me back $40 and came with a buttonholer, lots of pattern cams & a fancy set of feet. I named it Lorraine (you guessed it, after my mom). They're quite a pair this Ken & Lorraine - just like the originals. They both have adjustable presser foot tension, the feed dogs drop, and are set up with thread guides & spool posts for twin-needle sewing. They have 10 built-in stitches each, and Lorraine has a bazillion cams for decorative stitches, like ducks or tulips should I ever need them.
Back to the Lady Skater...
This is a great pattern, and there are fitting & alteration instructions on her blog. I did a quick perusal for a small bust adjustment and missed it - the instructions are there to raise the waistline because the pattern is drafted for a fuller bust. I will make that adjustment on my next version, this one sits about 3" below my natural waist. I think part of that is the stretch of the rayon jersey, so I plan to remove 2" of height in the bodice. I did raise the neckline, for my high bust - and it's perfect.
Interestingly, she also included a sway back alteration in the pattern, which is great. I rarely have so much pooling that I need to do one, but this pattern hugs my spine all the way down - it's VERY flattering. I always just assume that any swayback issues are really big butt issues, because they appear the same at first glance - pooling fabric in the small of the back. I usually do a test in muslin, and cut a line up the center back from hip to waist, and see if the pattern lies flat when it can swing open to cover the derriere. After this alteration, any remaining pooling is small for me. Now I'm considering also doing a small sway-back alteration to get 0 pooling, because this pattern has NONE.
I did one other small alteration when cutting, to cut 1" lower on the center back panel, for my previously mentioned significant butt. I think it was not necessary - the scoop lower on the back bodice takes care of most of the extra fabric needed even though the front & back skirt panels are cut from the same piece. You can see here the uneven hem with the extra 1" in the rear
I saw another blogger's version with a little picot edge stitch on the collar band, and I copied her idea - it came out quite nice! You can almost see it here:
The fabric I used is a rayon jersey from Joanne Fabric - with a little spandex for stretch. I love this print, and the color palette matches the two colors I'm trying to sew basics in - royal blue, and teal green. I broke my fabric diet to purchase it, but I have no regrets! They also carry this print in a bottom-weight woven - which was tempting.
I'll close with the obligatory twirly shot:
What a great dress and complimentary fabric choice.
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