Sunday, September 6, 2015

Sewaholic Thurlow Fitting Adjustments

Ohai.

I usually get some questions about what adjustments I made so I thought I'd post some photos of my FBA* for the Sewaholic Thurlow shorts

(* FULL BOOTY ADJUSTMENT)


I'm not sure who might find this useful, since I don't know anyone else with quite the rear differential that I have (15" increase from waist to butt apex), although the very helpful Kathy of kathy-sews is a slimmer version.  I often find her pants adjustment details really helpful.  Maybe someone out there will find my adjustments helpful as well!

I did a standard muslin process to get the adjustments, and then altered in my final version a couple of times before calling them "good enough."  I have learned the hard way to transfer each alteration to my pattern BEFORE going on with any other sewing.  I have a couple of other pants made where the final fit alterations are lost because I skipped that part.

I struggle a lot with motivation when fitting - I have lots of despair, having to do things over & over again.  Ripping out seams, and the pin, baste, try on, tweak & finally sew together gets really old.  However, wearing ill-fitting pants is even more annoying.  If I struggle when sewing and want to just be done, I go try on some off the rack pants, have a good hard look at my booty in the mirror and give myself a serious talking too.  I try to channel my late father, whose mantra was "If you're going to do a half-assed job you might as well not do it at all."  (pun intended)


Wednesday, August 12, 2015

New Look 6187

I have been looking for a nice summer shirt to keep the sun off - something with long sleeves and decent neck coverage.  I saw a few nice examples of New Look 6187 on Pattern Review, and got myself a copy.  I'm half way through, and I like it!


My fabric is a cotton voile by Amy Butler


It's a nice pattern, and the first time I have tried a New Look pattern.  The instructions are nice - they remind me of 1930s instructions - a bunch of illustrations down the center, with text to the side.  I like that instead of the one direction followed by one illustration layout that most other modern patterns use.

Saturday, August 1, 2015

Sorbetto Alterations

A little Before & After on the Colette Patterns Sorbetto top, with alterations detailed below.

On the back, you can see that I added a center back seam in the gingham.  This is because I did not have enough fabric to cut a full back piece.  I took advantage of the seam to remove some of the excess fabric.  I still have a way to go here.  



 In both tops, I widened from the waist down.  In the gingham top, I also scooped the hemline on back and front.  I think it's more flattering to have a slight curve across the hip.

On the gingham top, I cut the armscye in a bit, and also raised the bust dart by 1"


Finally, I added to the back, and removed from the front shoulder seam - this is an effort to get it to stop falling to the back and riding up in front.

Tuesday, February 3, 2015

Can't stop making Lady Ska-Tees

One more Lady Skater as a shirt - a long-sleeved version using up some fabric leftovers.  I love the pop of cobalt ribbing!  This ribbing has one side solid, and the opposite ribbed, so it is not as stretchy  as it should be.  I think it would be better used on a double-knit as opposed to the cotton-rayon-spandex blend of this bodice.  It ended up ok, but it was a little harrowing to ease on the neckband.