Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Vogue 1132 - UFO #1

I have never made a jacket.  I'm just not that advanced of a seamstress yet I tell myself.

However - Maybe the time has come.  I have made several wool skirts, with organza underlining, and various lining styles as a prep.  I've learned how to work with bulkier and handwoven woolens.  I have purchased & read the literature.  I have selected a pattern.  I have fabric, lining, hair canvas, twill tape, clapper, etc etc etc.  I even have a first muslin.

Here's a look at the fabric, lining & pattern.  Vogue 1132 - a jacket with a full peplum in the rear.  It's one drawback is that it's a one-piece sleeve, but I'm willing to live with that for a first jacket.


I made a muslin last fall.  I'm a little smaller now, but basically the same size.  I've done a round of alterations on the bust, and the back - shrinking the front and expanding the back.  I also have noted that I need to drop the back waist by 1", and possibly do a full upper-arm alteration.  Below are some photos of the wrinkly chalked-up mess.

Here you can see the sleeves bind, and the shoulder point is off my shoulder.  My sleeves always bind - I know I have square shoulders, and consequently my armpit is much higher than a normal person's. When I made this muslin, I had the bad habit of only bringing up the outside of the shoulder, and not raising the bottom of the armscye.  This will need to be re-done.

Here you can see I have successfully altered the princess seam to sit on my bustline, and taken in the excess on the lapel to account for my small bust.

The center back seam is not in the center because I only added the left sleeve.  This is contributing to the dropped shoulder problem.  I'll need both sleeves on to fit the armholes and shoulders properly.  The low-armscye sleeve binding problem is really apparent here.



This is a good candidate for a next project, but I fear that it will take me forever and I will grow bored and drop it again.  I could sneak in some simple sewing between bouts with this thing, as I have some nice silks recently purchased at MPB Day that will likely end up as a few sorbettos:

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